George and Elsa Vare love the white wine blends of Italy and have devoted Vare Vineyards to the pursuit of making this style of wine in Napa Valley. They are not new to the wine business having co-founded Luna Vineyards and this experience shows in the bottle. I first tasted Vare wines at the recent Wine 2.0 event at Crushpad in San Francisco and was excited to try their very limited production Bianco Riserva 2005 as part of the Wine Spy for a Day program. The Wine Spies are also offering free ground shipping on 4 bottles or more for all Winecast readers by entering promotional code “WINECASTLUVSME”.

A blend of 40% Ribolla Gialla, 25% Pinot Grigio, 22% Tocai Friulano, 10% Sauvignon Blanc and 3% Chardonnay grown in Napa Valley, Vare Bianco Riserva 2005 is unique in several ways. First, this is the only winery with plantings of Ribolla Gialla in the US, a variety from Italy’s Friuli Venezia Giulia region where it’s blended with Tocai Friulano. The wine spends an extra few months in once used French Oak barrels than it’s sibling Bianco which produces a more complex wine both aromatically and in it’s flavor profile. An finally, this is one of the few wines packaged in 500 ml bottles as requested by Thomas Keller’s French Laundry restaurant. This results in one of the best Cal-Ital white blends I’ve tasted to date.

Vare Vineyards, Bianco Riserva 2005 ($45/500ml/sample) - The straw color is a result of barrel fermentation and aging but the aromas are not overpowered by the influence of wood. This wine has a very pleasing bouquet of citrus, tropical fruit, walnut and a hint of clove. Complex but refreshing grapefruit and pineapple fruit flavors finishing with nice acidity and a creamy, lees element. An excellent food wine and would make a great starter to an Italian meal but with only 20 cases produced, you better act now.

14.5% ABV
Synthetic cork closure
Score: 90
Rating:

Buy this wine at Wine Spies for $35 today only!

And don’t forget to enter discount code “WINECASTLUVSME” when you check out for free ground shipping on orders of 4 bottles or more.

Thanks to Agent Red for recruiting me and Agent White for selecting such a nice wine to taste. Look for other wine bloggers to be Wine Spies for a Day in coming days.

Our monthly virtual tasting event turns three today with founder Lenn Thompson from LENNDEVOURS again hosting. Lenn’s theme of “Naked” Chardonnay is perfect for this time of year when the heat of summer has us drinking more fruity white wines. But Chardonnay is most often found with some oak aging so finding a non-oaked wine takes a bit of investigation although some producers are labeling their wines as “unwooded”, “no-oak” or even “naked.”

Chardonnay is a delicate grape that is easily dominated by other varietals through blending or, more often, with the addition of French oak. Mostly identified with the great white wines from France’s Burgundy region, Chardonnay can be made in a number of styles depending upon the techniques used by the winemaker. If they are looking for a soft, buttery style, malolactic fermentation (a.k.a. “ML”) is used. For creaminess in the mid-palate and finish, lees aging is done. And to add toast, vanilla and a bit more complexity in the aromatics, barrel fermentation and/or oak aging is added. The default style in California Chardonnay is oaked — some say too heavily — but things are changing in this regard.

My personal preference in Chardonnay is a light touch of oak or no oak at all. My favorites come from France’s Chablis area when fruit, minerality and acidity are center stage and oak is most often in the background or not used at all. So I immediately thought of Chablis when Lenn announced this theme but didn’t have a chance to visit some of the Twin Cities’ urban wine stores to buy a bottle. The wine selected here was chosen from the very few in stock that seemed to be unoaked from their label description and I confirmed this by visiting the winery website where oak is not mentioned in any of the marketing materials. If you are using expensive oak barrels, or even chips, in your Chardonnay you will mention this in the winemaker notes. And the aroma and flavor profile here is consistent with a stainless-only approach.

Hess Collection, Chardonnay, Monterey 2005 ($11) - This 100% Chardonnay features grapes grown in the cooler Monterey AVA in California. The color is a very pale straw with with a tinge of green. Lean citrus and pear aromas with a hint of nuttiness. Simple pear and pineapple flavors finishing clean and soft. An easy drinking quaffer and good value.

13.5% ABV

Synthetic cork closure

Score: 85

Rating:

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Thanks once again to Lenn for three great years of Wine Blogging Wednesday. I’m sure we will see a lot of great values this time out and a good turnout given the availability of un-oaked Chardonnay these days. Let’s hope this style becomes a trend in the broader market.

There are many stories in the history of Napa Valley that capture our imagination but the tale of Charles Shaw is one of urban legend. Shaw, a dentist from Chicago, started his eponymous winery in 1974 and produced some good quality wines from Valdiguie, Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir. In those days these grapes where blended and sold as either Gamay Beaujolais or Napa Gamay to suggest the wines of Burgundy’s Beaujolais area. From accounts at the time, the Charles Shaw Gamay Beaujolais was one of the better versions most likely because the wine contained the true Gamay Noir of Beaujolais. These grapes are now used in Andrew Lane’s Gamay Noir reviewed on Winecast 70.

Years past and Shaw struggled to make a profit as more well known varieties emerged from Napa Valley such as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. After a divorce in 1991, Shaw sold the winery assets and vineyards to Charles Krug and the brand name to Bronco Wine Company. That would have been the end of the story if Bronco’s Fred Franzia hadn’t pulled the brand from mothballs in 2002 to make the wildly successful “Two-buck Chuck” available at Trader Joe’s markets across the U.S. These wines, made from Central Valley grapes, are bottled at Bronco’s Napa, California factory to provide the word “Napa” on the label. Many consumers have been unfortunately misled by this and assumed the wines are actually from the prestigious Napa Valley AVA and are unbelievably good values. Out of curiosity, I have tried many of these wines and found them to range from simple but drinkable (Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet) to strange (Sauvignon Blanc) to flabby and thin (Chardonnay). But for $2 a bottle, I guess you get what you pay for.

I wouldn’t be writing this review if for not a chance encounter with Dr. Shaw while in Napa this week. It seems he is not very happy with all the success around the wines that bear his name so he’s out to prove that world class wine can bear a Charles Shaw label. His trademark lawyers have even found a loophole that allows him to use his name and not go the way others have after selling their brand name. It seems that Bronco only had a 15 year exclusive on the name and Dr. Shaw is wisely making some subtle changes to the winery name and label art to help consumers distinguish the new wines.

Made from grapes grown in Napa Valley these wines are made in very small quantities and are only available to the discerning few on a mailing list. From the four barrels of Chardonnay I sampled this week, I expect these wines to attract a significant cult following. Also produced are a Carneros Pinot Noir and Gamay Noir from Napa’s Oakville district.

Charles F. Shaw Winery, Chardonnay, “Old Vines”, Wild Horse Valley, Napa Valley 2006 (Barrel sample) - Pale straw color with floral pineapple, flint and toasty oak aromas. On the palate there are complex layers of butterscotch, fig, apricot and pear flavors that are very well balanced. A truly magnificent Chardonnay that will surely reclaim the Shaw name in the wine world. No word on the release price but I expect it to among the highest in Napa.

12.5% ABV
Natural cork closure
Score: 92-94

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Wolffer Estate Vineyards, “La Ferme Martin”, Chardonnay 2004 ($13.50/sample provided by the winery) - Light straw-green in color with aromas of citrus, pear and a touch of oak. Crisp citrus and green apple fruit together with a nice minerality and complexity from the lees aging. Finishes very dry with racy acidity making this a full-on food wine. This seems to have more weight in the mouth than the 2003 and a bit more fruit. If I lived closer to the winery, or if I could buy it locally, this would likely be my house white wine. A spectacular value in fruit driven Chardonnay and I also appreciate the lite 12.5% ABV Score: 8.5+/10

Thanks, Lenn, for getting the samples sent to me.

Buy this wine online.

Today’s podcast is a return after more than a month away from the mic with a look at Sonoma’s Russian River Valley AVA.

Show Notes:
00:22 - Welcome
01:01 - Russian River Valley Background
02:20 - Tasting Notes
02:40 - Papapietro Perry Winery, Pinot Noir, Elsbree Vineyards 2004 ($45)
03:06 - Papapietro Perry Winery, Pinot Noir, Leras Family Vineyards 2003 ($45) *
03:41 - De La Montanya Winery, Pinot Noir, Tina’s Vineyard 2004 ($38)
04:23 - De La Montanya Winery, Pinot Noir, Christine’s Vineyard 2004 ($38)
04:51 - De La Montanya Winery, Syrah, Estate Vineyard 2004 ($30)
05:05 - De La Montanya Winery, Pin-up Series, “Cabaret - Series II”, Cabernet / Zinfandel / Syrah 2003 ($38)
05:59 - Felda Creek, “Pinot Squared” 2004 ($32)
06:36 - Moshin Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Barrel Select 2003 ($22) +
07:18 - Moshin Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Lot 4, 2003 ($35)
07:37 - Davis Bynum, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2002 ($28)
08:28 - Davis Bynum, Pinot Noir, Lindleys Knoll Vineyard 2002 ($55)
08:46 - Davis Bynum, Pinot Noir, “Le Pinot”, Rochioli Vineyard 2002 ($80)
09:23 - Davis Bynum, Cabernet Sauvignon, Laureles Estate Vineyard 1999 ($50)
09:48 - J Vineyards, J Vintage Brut 2000 ($30)
10:24 - J Vineyards, J Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2003 ($32)
10:47 - J Vineyards, J Pinot Noir, Nicole’s Vineyard 1997 ($40)
11:12 - J Vineyards, J Pinot Noir, Nicole’s Vineyard 1998 ($40)
11:30 - Best of Tasting *
11:43 - Best Value +
12:05 - Full Disclosure
12:44 - Contact Details
13:13 - Next Show Theme

Feedback: winecast@gmail.com | Audio comments: +01-206-33-WINE-9 (+01-206-339-4639)
Copyright 2006 Acan Media, Inc. Licensed to the public under http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/

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Acacia Vineyard, Chardonnay, “Sangiacomo Vineyard�?, Carneros 2003 ($30) – Golden yellow in color with aromas of caramel and vanilla over a bit of pear and pineapple. Silky attack of butterscotch and nutmeg with a bit of pineapple fruit with a moderately long finish. I think this wine is too overpowering to match well with food, but still very well made in the typical oak laden California style. Whatever terroir there is from Sangiacomo Vineyard fruit has been overshadowed by ML and new oak barrels, in my opinion. Not my style of Chardonnay, but if you like popcorn-butter style Chard, this might just be the ticket. Score: 8.5/10

Today’s podcast is another vintner profile show with a discussion with Wolffer Estate Vineyards winemaker Roman Roth.

Show Notes:
00:23 - Welcome and show theme
00:35 - Wolffer Estate Background
01:24 - Discussion with winemaker Roman Roth
25:03 - Tasting Notes
25:15 - Wolffer, La Ferme Martin, Chardonnay 2003 ($13.50)
25:39 - Wolffer, Chardonnay, “Reserve�? 2002 ($19.50) +
26:06 - Wolffer, Chardonnay, “Estate Selection�? 2001 ($29)
26:33 - Wolffer, La Ferme Martin, Merlot 2002 ($13.50)
26:54 - Wolffer, Merlot, “Reserve�? 2002 ($22)
27:12 - Wolffer, Merlot, “Estate Selection�? 2001 ($35) *
27:41 - Best of Tasting *
27:46 - Best Value +
28:20 - Contact Details
28:48 - Next Show Theme

Feedback: winecast@gmail.com | Audio comments: +01-206-33-WINE-9 (+01-206-339-4639)
Copyright 2006 Acan Media, Inc. Licensed to the public under http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/

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Chateau de Maligny, Chablis Premier Cru, “Fourchaume�? 2001 ($19) – Golden straw in color with aromas of citrus and minerals. Lemon, tart green apple and mineral flavors finishing with nice acidity. A well balanced food wine that will age for a couple more years. Score: 8.5/10

Today’s show is a bit different from my normal format of talking about a wine varietal or region, into what I hope will be a monthly feature I’m calling vintner profile. The idea is to give you the back-story directly from the people in the business, both winery owners and winemakers. In this first outing, I talk with one of the great gentlemen of the California wine business, Jim Concannon from Concannon Vineyard in Livermore, CA. With St. Patrick’s Day later this week, I though Concannon, America’s first Irish winery, would be a great place to start this series.

Show Notes:
00:22 - Welcome and Show Theme
01:22 - Jim Concannon Interview
16:28 - Tasting Notes
16:53 - Concannon Vineyard, Chardonnay, Central Coast, “Selected Vineyards” 2004 ($10)
17:53 - Concannon Vineyard, “Stampmaker’s White”, Livermore Valley 2004 ($15)
17:56 - Concannon Vineyard, Heritage Petite Sirah 2001 ($50)
18:26 - Best of Tasting
18:47 - Best Value
19:11 - Second winner of QPR Wines drawing (congrats, Greg)
20:19 - Contact Details
20:47 - Next Show Theme

Feedback: winecast@gmail.com | Audio comments: +01-206-33-WINE-9 (+01-206-339-4639)
Copyright 2006 Acan Media, Inc. Licensed to the public under http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/

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Only 24 hours or so before our annual harvest feast day here in the U.S. and the wine blogosphere is buzzing with a few picks for the best wine matches to pair with the traditional turkey dinner (even with Alder sitting this one out). My choice is Pinot Noir and I have already given you a couple of Pinot’s to pick up if you have a large group to feed, but I think I will choose a Ponzi Pinot Noir 2002 from Oregon’s Willamette Valley I first reviewed in Winecast 8, with White Rose Estate Pinot Noir 2002 as my back-up bottle (although I might be tempted to call an audible and drink this one first!). Another tradition we have is to start off the festivities with a glass of Beaujolais nouveau. This year I have 4 of them to taste for an upcoming podcast, but probably will pull the dependable Louis Tete bottling, like my podcast buddy Alan, a.k.a. The Cellar Rat, already has.

If you must have a white wine, I suggest either an oaked Chardonnay or a crisp, fruity German Riesling from the excellent 2003 vintage. Look for “Kabinett” on the label and you will be good to go. Which ever wine you choose, make sure you have a backup bottle should cork taint raise its ugly head or your celebration requires further replenishment